🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.